La Sportiva N.A

Each year Colorado Mountain School guides head up to the Ruth Gorge to lead what is called the Alaskan Mountaineering Seminar. This ten day trip is a great introduction into climbing in Alaska and building upon your mountaineering skills.

The Ruth Gorge is home to some unbelievable formations and routes. 5000 foot granite monoliths rise up out of the glaciers making even the tallest person feel very small. Snow, ice, or rock, this venue has it all. The Gorge can be broken up into sub areas based on glaciers and formations. Each area offers some amazing climbing. Many times we can decide which area we go based on our client’s ability level and weather conditions.

After an unforgettable flight into the Gorge our team will set up base camp near the landing zone and begin training for the climbing to come. We first focus on honing our glacier travel and crevasse rescue systems, then review and practice alpine ice techniques, route finding, avalanche assessment, and rope ascension.

There are a number of options for your first objective. Mount Dickey is an ideal climb when we are based on the Ruth Glacier. The Molar is another area classic when stationed at the Root Canal. Both of these formations offer spectacular views, great climbing, and an amazing sense of accomplishment.

After an ascent of either of these two peaks, or another area classic, we set our eyes to something a bit more challenging. The options are limitless but some that top our list are the Japanese Couloir on Mount Barrill, a 2,750’, 55-70 degree snow or ice route, the Wisdom Tooth rating in at AI 3 or 4 - M4, or the lower slopes of the uber-classic Ham & Eggs Route on Moose’s Tooth. They are all a great way to end the week in the Gorge.

Beta:
Season: Aim for April or May. We offer our 2010 Alaskan Mountaineering Seminar April 23 through May 2. Custom trips are always available.

Classic climbs around the area:
Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth - V, 5.9, AI 4
Goldfinger on the Stump - IV, 5.11a
Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 - V, 5.8, 60-degree ice
West Face Couloir of Mount Huntington - V, 85-degree ice
West Face of Mount Dickey - II, 35-40 degree snow
Japanese Couloir on Mount Barrill - III, 55-70 degree snow or ice

Private Trip Beta:
Arrival City: Anchorage, Alaska

Lodging in Anchorage:
Too many to list but we like the Longhouse. They will pick you up from the airport, offer clean lodging, and it won’t crush your budget.

Lodging in Talkeetna:
• The Swiss Alaska Inn – Offers 20 clean and modern private rooms. Great customer service and they’ll even pick you up after you fly in off the glacier.
• The Roadhouse - They offer private lodging as well as a hostel.
• Talkeetna Air Taxi - If you are flying with them, you can stay at their climber bunkhouse for free. It isn’t the Radisson, but the price is right.

Place to eat in Talkeetna:
The West Rib – so good!

Transportation to/from Talkeetna:
Denali Overland – They’ll pick you up and drop you off where you want. They also make a stop in Wasilla for groceries on the way up to Talkeetna. Price is dependant on group size.

Mountain Transport:
Talkeetna Air Taxi – One of a few companies that offer glacier landings and air transport in the Alaskan Range. They have great customer service, their pricing is very competitive, and have a free bunkhouse and gear storage.

Check out Colorado Mountain School guide Russell Hunter, as he reviews all the clothing and equipment needed for our upcoming Alaska Mountaineering Course.